November 2018


The Minute Repeater watch is actually divided into two sets of systems, one for walking time and one for reporting time, and the two are completely independent. The watch does not go, just dial the slider, the Minute Repeater pocket watch can still report time. However, for the Minute Repeater watch, the travel time system is still the basis, because the time is not allowed, the time of reporting is also wrong. So the first step in the specific repair work is to make the time recover accurate.

The Movement of This Zenith Minute Repeater Pocket Watch (After Repairing)

First of all, this Zenith watch has been in operation for more than 100 years. The three-wheel axle wear is more serious and can not be repaired. Therefore, the technicians stamped the old axle and replaced the new piece. Secondly, because the pocket watch has been violent bump, the ruby bearing inside the movement has cracked, so this time also replaced the new ruby. Then, the Zenith watch did not install a shock absorber at that time. Considering that Mr. Leng used it as a daily timepiece for a long time, the technician added a balance wheel shock absorber for safety. However, in order to maintain the original appearance of the pocket watch, they deliberately adopted the invisible design, taking into account the practical and appearance. Moreover, the low-carbon steel material is used in the pocket watch spring. After more than a hundred years of operation, the metal has been fatigued, not only the total energy stored, the torque decay is fast, and the power is still insufficient. So the time of the Zenith changed the clockwork again, and the Minute Repeater pocket watch was restored to the original factory state of the power reserve for about 40 hours.

Poising Tool

The handling of the movement balance is the most complicated part of this time-lapse system repair. The balance wheel is the core component of mechanical machinery. The slight offset and vibration will directly affect the accuracy of the timepiece. After the technician detected it, the balance wheel of the Minute Repeater pocket watch had been slightly offset. In order to restore it to the best travel time, they use five different tools to adjust the balance part.

First, the technician removes the balance shaft and places it on the “rotary lathe” and uses the “polish” to contact the continuously rotating balance shaft until the surface of it is smooth. This kind of operation is not only for the sake of beauty, but more importantly, it avoids unevenness, reduces the contact area and friction.

Then, the technician combines the balance shaft with the balance wheel and places it on the “Truing Calipers” to make sure that the two are perpendicular to each other without any slight tilt.

After that, place it on the two ruby edges of the “Poising Tool” for “static balance” processing to determine if the center of gravity of the entire balance is above the axis. Gently rock the balance wheel. If there is eccentricity, the balance wheel will swing from side to side after a few turns until it stops. At this time, its focus is at the bottom of the still position. After correcting the key points, you can use a small drill to cut a little metal on the back side of the key edge and then perform a balance check, so that it is repeated several times until the balance is balanced.

Finally, the entire balance wheel is mounted on the movement, placed on the “calibration meter”, and the eccentric direction is determined according to the error of the different orientations of the movement, and the eccentricity is eliminated.

After the time system is repaired, it is necessary to enter the timekeeping system.

Mr. Leng and His Zenith Minute Repeater Pocket Watch

After more than two months, Zenith has not only repaired the faulty travel time and Minute Repeater function, but also thoroughly cleaned and maintained the entire timepiece with more than one and a half century of professional watchmaking technology, making this pocket watch which has witnessed the two generations of time and emotional reborn.

Mr. Leng and His Zenith Watches

The goods are valuable, and the true sentiments is really priceless. When Mr. Leng found Zenith and commissioned the restoration of this antique timepiece, not only to restore the Minute Repeater pocket watch restore glory, but also to continue to retain and inherit the family affection memory carried on it. Zenith will use the “movement” to compare the heart, passing on this two-century family memory carrier for generations through its own professional skills.

I want to share a story with you today. One day in January 2018, the Zenith store International Finance Center (IFC) in Chengdu ushered in an old gentleman. The old gentleman named “Leng Yumin” is 79 years old. This time, he wants the clerk to help him hand over a letter to the headquarters of Zenith and entrust the official to repair a pocket watch. And this 100-year-old Zenith Minute Repeater Pocket Watch have witnessed the time and emotions of two generations.

Song Xilian born in 1907. In January 1924, he was admitted to the the Huangpu Military Academy, became the youngest graduate of the first phase of Huangpu. At the age of 27, he was the youngest lieutenant general of the National Army.

In December 1948, a French military regiment came to visit his station, during which a Zenith Minute Repeater pocket watch was presented as a gift to Song Xilian.

The Zenith Minute Repeater Pocket Watch (Before Repairing)

This Zenith Minute Repeater Pocket Watch 34587 was produced in the early 20th century, which is made of 14K gold, three-hunted watch case, and the front and back are experienced carved craft. The ceramic dial with Savonette design is matched with Breguet digital scale and peach-shaped gold hands.

The Zenith Minute Repeater Pocket Watch (Before Repairing)

The pocket watch is equipped with a manual winding Minute Repeater movement, a bimetal cut-off balance, a blue steel Breguet hairspring, a wolf-toothed steel wheel, and a rotating centrifugal reducer. Built-in double-spring, the mainspring is responsible for the travel time system while the secondary clock provides energy for the Minute Repeater time. When someone dials the time-sliding slider, the movement will use the two hammers to strike the gong to emit three different sounds representing “hours”, “quarter” and “minutes”, and broadcast the current specific time.

It is no exaggeration to say that such a configuration and function of the pocket watch was extremely valuable at that time. Even so, Song Xilian passed the pocket watch to others in less than a year.

On November 25, 1949, Song Xilian was preparing to take the troops to the west. When he left the station, he gave this pocket watch to his subordinate “Leng Peiyuan”. “Song Xilian” is the uncle of the old watchman of the pocket watch, and “Leng Peiyuan” is the father of Mr. Leng Yumin. The reason why such a valuable gift will be given is that the 10th day of the lunar calendar is the birthday of “Leng Peiyuan”, on the other hand, the future of Song move to the west is uncertain, and it is very likely that he will never return.

Leng Peiyuan has been collecting this watch until died in 1952, that year, Leng Yumin was only 12 years old. This pocket watch bearing the friendship of the father was first reserved for his mother, and then passed to the hands of Mr. Leng Yumin.

Mr. Leng Yumin insisted on retaining this Zenith pocket watch even during the most difficult and most embarrassing period. For him, this is not a costly timepiece, but the legacy of his father, and more full of friendship between the ancestors.

The Zenith Minute Repeater Pocket Watch (Before Repairing)

Whenever reminiscing about his father and ancestors, Mr. Leng will take it out and listen. With excellent quality, this Zenith Pocket Watch, which was produced in the early 20th century, has been running normally for decades in the hands of Mr. Leng, until the scene mentioned at the beginning of this article.

When technician looked this pocket watch in the original factory Leroc, Switzerland, he found that it is not easy.

First, this Minute Repeater pocket watch has been modified in the early days, slightly different from the original file; second, it not only has problems with the system, but also the components is faulty; third, it was dismantled by others in the later period, leaving some problems; fourth, after a hundred years, the pocket watch itself has natural aging and damage.

In the face of such a difficult situation, the official force did not hesitate to undertake the commission of Mr. Leng Lao.

First of all, the technician carefully looked through the precious drawings of the watch factory for more than 100 years, found the original manuscript of the antique timepiece, and began the specific repair work.

In the past three years, ZENITH has worked with Land Rover. In 2017, the two sides collaborated to launch the Chronomaster El Primero Range Rover Velar model, paying tribute to the Range Rover. The new car should be matches with the best watch, the next generation Range Rover Evoque and ZENITH’s DEFY Classic series of the latest watch jointly launched: a chic sports watch-Zenith Defy Classic Range Rover Special Watch 95.9001.670/77.R791, highlighting the iconic design.

Designed to blend urban life and country vacations, the new Range Rover Aurora is a constructive evolution of its unmistakable appearance on the basis of its enduring luxury. Its redesigned design focuses on simplicity, and the most compact Range Rover is the embodiment of modern and time-honored design, placing Aurora models at the top of the market segment.

Land Rover’s chief designer, Mr. Gerry McGovern, stated: “A major element of the new Land Rover Range Rover Aurora is expected to be available. The new Zenith Defy Classic Range Rover represents a milestone in collaborative watch design, creating the ideal time tool, at the same time, it is also a tribute to the partnership between Zenith and Land Rover.”

The new Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Range Rover Edition is the newest member of the related watch collection and is known for its unique design. It is the performance of the modern and graphic evolution of the series. Like the Land Rover Range Rover Aurora, its beautifully proportioned 41 mm case gives it an absolute neutral appeal.

The DEFY Classic Range Rover is limited to 200 pieces, developed in close collaboration with the design and technical engineering teams, combining its own streamlined look and some of the classic elements captured from the car. These elements include, in particular, the key colours of British-made vehicles, such as the turquoise blue seconds hand and balance wheel, which is inspired by the steering wheel and seat features of the Aurora.

This exquisite timepiece is inspired by the sculptural design of the Aurora wheel, while the quilted pattern of the premium sports utility car is decorated with a “diamond” pattern and a rubber strap on the watch. For the first time, ZENITH re-improved its Defy Classic collection, powered by the new Elite skeleton movement, based on a powerful inspirational design that exudes a unique charm.

ZENITH CEO Julien Tornare said: “If Zenith is a car, it will definitely become a Land Rover Range Rover! Both are considered coordinates in their respective fields. And both have the same values and some key features, including glamour, superb technology and excellent performance. At the same time, they are based on tradition and are committed to innovation. Defy and Land Rover Range Rover are both ideal luxury brands and the cornerstones of their respective industries, creating products that instantly resonate emotionally. What’s more, both of  them draw inspiration from the past, firmly looking forward to the future.

Zenith DEFY Classic Range Rover 41MM Special Edition Wristwatch

Reference: 95.9001.670/77.R791

Price: CHF 7,500

Movement: Elite 670 SK Automatic Movement

Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)

Power Reserve: Min. 50 Hours

Functions: Hours and Minutes in the Centre, Artic Petrol Central Seconds Hand, Date Window at 6 O’clock

Case Material: Brushed Titanium

Case Diameter: 41 MM

Case Thickness: 10.75 MM

Water-resistance: 10 ATM

Dial: Skeleton like a Range Rover Rim

Strap: Rubber

Buckle: Titanium Double Folding Clasp

Limited Edition: 200 Pieces

Swiss watchmaker Zenith teamed up with British watchmaker Bamford Watch Department and British fashion one-stop menswear website MR PORTER to officially release the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Solar Blue exclusive limited edition watch on November 15, 2018.

Designed by Zenith and BWD founder Mr. George Bamford and his team, this watch was developed and produced entirely by the brand watchmaker. This is the first time these three partners have jointly created such projects and products of this performance. Based on the Zenith Heritage 146 model, this watch draws inspiration from the brand’s many traditional design elements. These subtle features include a speedometer inspired by the 1971 El Primero, a red seconds hand, a vintage chronograph case and a central small dial that resembles the old Zenith recorder and motion-sensing clock.

Its unique Solar Blue dial is fitted in a 38mm stainless steel case with a navy blue Alcantara synthetic leather strap, and the white stitching on the strap echoes the white hour markers on the dial. And it is built-in El Primero 4069 high-frequency automatic winding movement. Combining all the highlights, Zenith, Bamford Watch and MR PORTER create a Zenith El Primero Solar Blue 38MM Stainless Steel Automatic Limited Timepiece with new, classic and contemporary look.

MR PORTER Managing Director Mr. Toby Bateman

“This is the first time MR PORTER has worked with Zenith and Bamford watches, and we are very excited about the results. Zenith’s modern watchmaking method and George Bamford’s focus on contemporary customization create a unique timepiece. Our customers and readers will love and appreciate it. Go deep into Zenith’s archive for technical reference, and this collaboration will showcase real creativity and legend – this will undoubtedly make this watch stand out in the next few years.”

Mr. Julien Tornare, the CEO of Zenith

“The partnership with the custom specialist Bamford Watch Division (BWD) last year has validated the wide range of creative possibilities that this collaboration offers. This is the first time we have produced a BWD-designed product entirely in-house. In 2015, Zenith is also the first Swiss luxury watch brand to enter MR PORTER.COM. This world-class retail e-commerce sales network does not need to be described. The result of this tripartite effort may resonate with fashion men around the world.”

Mr. George Bamford, Founder of Bamford Watch

“Since becoming an official customizer for Zenith last June, I have considered this project with MR PORTER. I am happy to see it implemented, and both brands design and promote the same project, which is always a good fortune. Zenith’s craft team opened my eyes, because the beautiful blue on this unique dial is so lively, with retro design and ingenuity to make it look really different.”

These limited-edition watches feature a special open case back cover with a pattern engraved on them, numbered individually from 1 to 25. Exclusively sold by MR PORTER, limited to 25 pieces, priced at $7,500.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero MR. PORTER Limited Edition 38mm Watch

Reference: 03.2152.4069/57.C814

Price: $7,500

Case Material: Stainless Steel

Case Diameter: 38mm

Water Resistance: 10ATM

Dial Color: Solar Blue

Strap: Blue Alcantara with Protective Rubber Lining

Clasp: Stainless Steel Pin Buckle

Movement: El Primero 4069 Automatic Movement

Power Reserve: 50Hours

Function: Chronograph (Central chronograph hand and 30-minute counter), Hours and Minutes, Small Seconds, Tachymetric Scale

The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride (DGR) event began in 2012 with the idea of Australian Mark Hawa. Since its inception, the event has spread to more than 650 cities in 95 countries and regions, and the enthusiastic riders proudly showcase their elegance. Since the first time in 2016, Zenith brand has been a global partner of DGR since it first advocated the power of retro gentleman and locomotive culture. This year, it is the third time to help DGR, Zenith will bring the new Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Ton-up Automatic Wristwatch 11.2432.4069/21.C900.

ZENITH Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride (London)

On September 30, 2018, more than 120,000 elegant gentlemen walk on the streets of Beijing and Shanghai, dressed in elegant costumes, riding antique motorcycles, helping the event’s official charity partner The Movember Foundation to raise funds to improve public research on prostate cancer. With men’s mental health awareness, they will also pass through the centres of cities such as London, Paris, New York, Hong Kong, Munich, Vienna and Andorra, and take photos with enthusiastic tourists and young people who are amazed. DGR has become one of the world’s largest men’s health charity fundraising events, raising more than $13 million to date, and its tool is adding another $6 million in 2018 .

Elegant and Generous

The ZENITH team works hand-in-hand with the DGR, praising the timeless style and selfless charity. With the same goal of raising funds and funding research, Zenith Ambassador and brand friends have given enthusiastic support. The impressive fundraising results also reflect the dedication and firm passion of brand partners.

Zenith is no stranger to the world of motorcycles. In the event of 2018, the brand also prepared extra surprises for watch and motorcycle enthusiasts. To celebrate this third consecutive year of support for this global charity event, Zenith is proud to introduce the new Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Ton Up Black Wristwatch.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Ton-up 11.2432.4069/21.C900 Misura 45 MM for Men

Low-key Retro Charm

The Zenith Pilot Series TYPE 20 TON-UP chronograph is still a true pilot watch. The big 45 mm aged steel case combines vintage charm with the overall design of the watch. It is wide and comfortable to fit the wrist, and it is the same style as the TYPE 20 other models. This heritage is also evident in other features, including a giant crown specially designed for hand-operated gloves, and a large adjustment button for easy-to-start chronographs, whether or not you wear gloves, it is easy to operate.

The new black dial is very simple and does not have date or calendar function. The large-sized minute and second hands (typical features of the pilot’s watch) and the Arabic numerals are covered with SuperLumiNova® coating, plus the aid of a double chronograph-a small seconds dial at 9 o’clock and the minute chronograph at a 3 o’clock position provides a clear reading. The entire watch is powered by Zenith’s legendary EL PRIMERO 4069 automatic movement, which operates at 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour) with a power reserve of 50 hours. Precise timing allows you to grab every minute.

Pure black matte tones are perfect for the 2018 pilot series Type 20 Chronograph Ton-up Aged Steel watch. The black matte dial complements the oily matte leather strap and black case, exuding the ultimate in low-profile riders. For added comfort and longevity, the strap is lined with protective rubber and features conspicuous white hand stitching and a titanium clasp.

Just as the name implies, the watch’s worn steel case back is engraved with a modified motorcycle rider, which is water resistant to 100 meters. With its outstanding design and unparalleled movement, the pilot series TYPE 20 TON-UP chronograph is suitable for every person who pursues individuality.

As a Swiss watch brand, the Baume & Mercier is committed to creating the best quality and restrained luxury watch with the motto of the founder “Aestheticism, only making quality watches”. And the iconic collection of Baume & Mercier watches, the Classima series is one of the most popular timepieces. In order to satisfy the desire of watch-lovers to wear price-conscious luxury watches, the Classima series watch has kept pace with the times and continues to innovate.

Elegant and eye-catching watch of Baume & Mercier combines the simplicity and exquisiteness advocated by modern people. It shows a strong brand charm, although at first glance it will not be so intuitive to reflect its characteristics, the longer people pay attention to it, the more person can appreciate its intriguing unique charm. Come and enjoy Baume & Mercier Classima watch M0A10374 today.

To reflect the ultimate balance of the Metropolitan watch, this new 40mm diameter watch features a silver-white classic dial. The dial is embellished with linear lines, which are extraordinarily elegant and solemn in the warm light. And the date display window is located at 3 o’clock, adding to the practical function of the watch.

After polishing, the case reveals a rounded and smooth sensory experience. This special design make the watch more comfortable to the wrist when wearing in daily life. The exquisite steel crown is engraved with the logo pattern of the celebrity in the upper part, brings a unique charm to the watch. Fine polished crown feels comfortable without slip, ensuring smooth and accurate commissioning.

The transparent back cover of the new watch is round and firm that has sapphire crystal center glass. It is highly visible against natural light. Through the glass case back, the operation of the movement is unobstructed and this is more interesting. Equipped with a self-winding mechanical SW200 movement that is made from Sellita, the watch can guarantee the high quality for customers. And this movement is able to ensure the precise travel time and support the power for the functions of the watch, which is very reliable.

The stainless steel bracelet with triple folding clasp is comfortable and easy to use. This sliver buckle protects the watch from the wrist and is not easy to slip. It is a watchful and sleek model, classic and atmospheric watch with a humble and beautiful time. It is a perfect partner for the master to make a enjoyable life for himself.

Sum up:
The combination of high-grade materials with exquisite craftsmanship is simple and elegant. This white dial is decorated with rose gold, which is stylish and elegant. The steel body makes the watch more comfortable to wear that can easily adapt to different occasions.

(November 4, 2018) Explain the unique brilliance of each moment with sparkling gems and explore the dazzling charm of individuality! Today, Swiss watchmaker ZENITH has released the new Defy El Primero 21 Rainbow limited edition watch at the Hangzhou Station of the “Time Evolution” large-scale watch tour. Zenith’s global brand spokesperson Eason Chan and Zenith Global CEO Julien Tornare helped to release the moment and set the moment.

Half a century ago, Zenith launched the El Primero movement, the first integrated self-winding column wheel chronograph movement in history. The EL Primero’s timing accuracy can reach one tenth of a second, which is considered the legend of the watches world. In 2017, Zenith once again exerted its strength and subverted the traditional concept. With the new Defy El Primero 21 movement, it broke the chronograph limit and led the watchmaking industry into a one-second era. The Defy El Primero 21 calibre not only made a huge leap in performance and mechanical design, but raised the reliability and precision of the timepiece to a new level, fully demonstrating the brand’s spirit of innovation for a century and a half.

Defy El Primero 21 Rainbow Limited Edition Watch Released

Zenith’s “Time Evolution” Large Watch Tour Hangzhou SiteAs a global brand spokesperson for Zenith, Eason Chan shared his own musical moments on the spot: “The sound is audible and the color is visible, the music records different moments, and each one of them is different. The moments have their own unique color imprints, and the neon gives these moments a unique meaning. It is also the perfect interpretation of the Defy El Primero 21 Rainbow Limited Edition watch. With outstanding performance and mechanical structure, Defy El Primero 21 Rainbow Limited watch is certified by the Chronometer and brings the collection’s advanced watchmaking, timing and color aesthetics to a whole new level.

Eason Chan and Zenith Global CEO Julien Tornare

One Hundredth of a Second, the Beauty of Precision

As a model of the new generation of Zenith chronographs, the Defy El Primero 21 gives the contemporary mechanical watch unprecedented visual, auditory and timing precision. Equipped with an epoch-making masterpiece with an accuracy of 1/100 second, it complements bold avant-garde gems and craftsmanship. 2.26 carats with 44 different colors VVS clarity high quality gemstones present an all-encompassing time treasure, magnificently presented with the elegance of the jewels and the elegance of the openwork watch. The two Defy El Primero 21 Rainbow limited edition watches are paired with 44mm black ceramic and titanium case, which can be worn by both men and women. The hollow dial is a testament to precision. In line with this special rainbow design, in addition to a comfortable black or blue crocodile-covered rubber strap, there are five colorful strap colors to choose from, providing more fashionable mix for watch lovers.

Defy El Primero 21 Rainbow Limited Edition Watch Launch Event

This benchmark is based on the El Primero 9004 automatic movement, which introduces a double-chain structure, and the watch and chronograph are equipped with an escapement with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz) and 360,000 vibrations per hour (50 Hz). This unique display further highlights the advantages of high frequency. The inner bezel is designed with a scale of 1 to 100. One hundredth of a second, the chronograph hand sweeps over the inner bezel at a full revolution per second, which is intuitive and visually appealing. The openwork dial reflects the elegant contemporary decor, which is also representative of the aesthetics of Zenith: the sweeping second hand with a star mark, the large luminous bar pointer and the hour marks.

Defy El Primero 21 Rainbow Limited Edition Watch Launch Event

Defy El Primero 21 Rainbow Black / Blue Limited Edition Watch

Reference: 33.9002.9004/96.R580 / 32.9003.9004/86.R592

Movement: El Primero 9004 Self-winding Movement

Power Reserve: 50 Hours

Case Material: Black Ceramic Case with Rainbow Gemstone

Case Diameter: 44 MM

Case Thickness: 14.50 MM

Crystal Glass: Curved Double-sided Anti-glare Treatment Sapphire Crystal Glass

Back Cover: Sapphire Crystal

Water Resistance: 10 ATM (100 Meters)

Dial: Skeleton

Strap: Black Rubber Strap Covered with Black Crocodile Leather / White Rubber Strap Covered with Blue Crocodile Leather

Buckle: Titanium Double Folding Clasp

Limited Edition: 50