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October 2018

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Patek Philippe launched the new Twenty~4 automatic mechanical watch. This is a watch designed for modern, stylish, independent, active and independent women, to accompany them through every colorful 24 hours. From outdoor casual outfits to sumptuous evening dresses, it can be paired with a variety of shapes to fit every occasion. Women who choose the Twenty~4 automatic mechanical watch, while easily driving the latest technology products, are more interested in the traditional mechanical timepieces of the wrist, because it not only represents a high-quality craft tradition, but also a beautiful art masterpiece with a long-lasting value.

Elegance First, Precious and Eternal

The new Twenty~4 automatic mechanical watch inherits the aesthetic charm of the same series of watches born in 1999. The center chain of the bracelet is slightly raised, blending with the delicate double-layer links on both sides. The new 36 mm round case is elegant and detailed, distinguishing it from the old one. The dial features a push-fit Arabic solid block and a bar-shaped pointer, all paved with a fluorescent coating to ensure clarity and readability. The curved sapphire crystal is perfectly matched to the case line. The bezel is set with two rows of patchwork diamonds, using the “Dentelle” method to fully highlight the sparkle and feminine charm of the diamond.

The new Twenty~4 automatic mechanical watch is equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement. It is available in stainless steel and rose gold with different dial colors. One of the silver dials is decorated with artistic features to create a precious silk texture; diamonds-set bezel, crown and bracelet add brilliance to this elegant rose gold model.

2018 Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic Blue Dial Stainless Steel Watch

Reference: 7300/1200A-001

Price: 19,970 GBP

Dial: Blue Sunburst Dial

Case Material: Stainless Steel

Bezel: Stainless Steel Set with 160 Diamonds

Case Diameter: 36MM

Case Thickness: 10.05MM

Bracelet: Stainless Steel

Buckle: Fold-over Clasp

Movement: Caliber 324 S C Self-winding Movement

Power Reserve: 35Hours-45Hours

Water Resistance: 30M

Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic Gray Sunburst Dial Diamonds Watch

Reference: 7300/1200A-010

Price: 19,970 GBP

Dial: Gray Sunburst Dial

Case Material: Stainless Steel

Bezel: Stainless Steel Set with 160 Diamonds

Case Diameter: 36MM

Case Thickness: 10.05MM

Bracelet: Stainless Steel

Buckle: Fold-over Clasp

Movement: Caliber 324 S C Self-winding Movement

Power Reserve: 35Hours-45Hours

Water Resistance: 30M

Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Rose Gold Brown Dial Automatic Ladies Watch

Reference: 7300-1200R-001

Price: 34,730 GBP

Dial: Brown Sunburst Dial

Case Material: Rose Gold

Bezel: Rose Gold Set with 160 Diamonds

Case Diameter: 36MM

Case Thickness: 10.05MM

Bracelet: Rose Gold

Buckle: Fold-over Clasp

Movement: Caliber 324 S C Self-winding Movement

Power Reserve: 35Hours-45Hours

Water Resistance: 30M

Luxury Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Silvery Dial Self-winding Rose Gold Timepiece

Reference: 7300-1200R-010

Price: 34,730 GBP

Dial: Silvery Sunburst Dial

Case Material: Rose Gold

Bezel: Rose Gold Set with 160 Diamonds

Case Diameter: 36MM

Case Thickness: 10.05MM

Bracelet: Rose Gold

Buckle: Fold-over Clasp

Movement: Caliber 324 S C Self-winding Movement

Power Reserve: 35Hours-45Hours

Water Resistance: 30M

2018 New Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic Diamonds Bezel Bracelets Silvery Dial Ladies Wristwatch

Reference: 7300-1201R-001

Price: 43,410 GBP

Dial: Silvery Vertical Horizontal Satin-finished Dial

Case Material: Rose Gold

Bezel: Rose Gold Set with 160 Diamonds

Case Diameter: 36MM

Case Thickness: 10.05MM

Bracelet: Rose Gold with Diamonds

Buckle: Fold-over Clasp

Movement: Caliber 324 S C Self-winding Movement

Power Reserve: 35Hours-45Hours

Water Resistance: 30M

Summary

Summary: These 2018 New Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Diamonds Automatic Ladies Wristwatches are a new interpretation of women’s long-lasting charm. All of the bracelets are equipped with 4 separate latches to optimize the operation of opening and closing, in addition, they can prevent accidental release of the buckle, fulling of convenient and practical charm.

Since its inception, Baume & Mercier has always insisted on the concept of creating high-quality and low-priced products. Inspired by Swiss watchmaking traditions, it inspires design and produces a unique collection of elegance. Today we will come to appreciate Clifton series MOA10058 watch.

The Swiss made movement has 42 H power reserve with 25 gems. And the frequency of vibration is about 28800 per hour, which can make the watch function in a correct way and ensure the right time for people.
The thickness of the 38.8mm diameter dial is 9.4mm, which is common size for daily life that owner can accept it.
As the silver is the perfect color that can match almost all the colors, so the brand choose this silver dial to join the 18 K rose gold material, making the whole watch reflect a wonderful appearance.
The hands and the markers are all the overgild, which seems bright and graceful. The Arabic numerals markers only stay at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock, and other markers are sticks. The hands in Dauphine (Crown princess) type add the fashion to watch.

Crown princess needles, the first is “DAUPHINE” in French. Because the badge of French prince had a dolphin pattern, so French prince was also called DAUPHIN.
The pointers are not designed in radian and replaced by clear line,which perfectly outlines the slim outer shape of hands in corners. Three-dimensional design allows the pointers to reflect the exquisite craftsmanship in simplicity.
The overall appearance of needles are sharp and clear, and the direction is also very clear. It is often favored by fashion, pioneers and avant-garde watches. Now look at the watch store, you will find such pointers abound.

Following the tradition, the Clifton series has a second scale ring on the outer circle of dial to make reading more precise. It also adds practicality to the watch. At 3 o’clock stands the date display widow, which is square and embedded. The black number is obvious.
Rode gold case is in Turtle shell and round aggregate shape. Case is polished and satin-finished to show the traditional essence of the celebrity hand-made watchmaking technique, which is gentle and smooth.
The crown with coin pattern is also the same material, and adjustment time is more convenient. Inlaid with the logo of the brand, the crown is designed with a dome.
The one-piece lugs combine leather strap with case, adding to the aesthetic value of the watch. Black crocodile leather strap is comfortable to wear and reveals a sense of luxury in fashion.

Screw down rose gold back has the sapphire crystal transparent center, which is a very clear representation of the internal workings of the watch. And 50 m water-resistant can meet the daily needs.

For people who like to collect mechanical watches, the beauty created by the interaction between the gears is the most exciting. In order to allow the machinery to continue to operate, the brand relentlessly pursued. And the large power mechanical watch came into being, which was deeply loved by collectors.

A. Lange & Sohne, a German watchmaking brand with a reputation of “traditional quintessence and excellence”, is constantly seeking breakthroughs in the field of fine watchmaking. It has won numerous awards in the International Watch Competition and it is highly regarded by watch collectors and connoisseurs. There are so many outstanding works of the brand, and the most popular ones are the first power reserve around the world—Saxony Series LANGE 31 that can store a whole month of power.

This watch, which meets the power requirements of 31 days, has a unique constant power escapement system that ensures precise moments and is a breakthrough in watch manufacturing.

In the past ten years, A. Lange & Sohne Saxony Lange 31 is still the first and only mechanical watch with a power reserve of 31 days. No other models have been produced so far. The patented constant power escapement built into the Lange 31 continues to provide uniform torque. This ingenious device is located between the main barrel and the time-wheel train.

At the 2017 Geneva International Haute Horlogerie Exhibition (SIHH), A. Lange & Sohne was the first to present the new Lange 31 with a limited edition of 100 pieces.

In order to store unprecedented power, the LANGE 31 is equipped with two giant barrels that overlap. For such a strong spring winding—the “key-winding technology”, which is used in antique pocket watches.

The round 31-day power reserve indicator window is located to the right of the solid silver 45.9mm diameter dial. Although the diameter is large, the engineers carefully design the arc according to ergonomics and it is quite comfortably. The last compartment of the power reserve indicator is red, reminding the owner of the time when the watch is on the chain.The large date display is set on the left and it is symmetrical to form a harmonious and balanced visual effect.

The sapphire crystal glass bottom cover can reveal the L034.1 movement (composed of 406 parts) and people might appreciate a special winding device that uses a screw to wind up.

Sum up:
There is no doubt that the A. Lange & Sohne watch has all the advantages and features of the world belongs to the brand, and the Saxony Lange 31 is also available: transparent sapphire crystal case back, screw balance wheel, gooseneck spinner, hand-carved balance wheel splint, screw-mounted gold sleeve, and all the exquisite detailing finishes reflect the classic style of A. Lange & Sohne.

PRECISION

 

Comparison of Movement Detection Data Before and After the Chronograph Function Turning On

Most of the chronographs, when the timing function is turned on, simultaneously drive two sets of gears, which is equivalent to pulling a car before a horse, and now it becomes two cars. The watch will go slower when the other conditions are the same.

We used the instrument to test a new Rolex Daytona ceramic watch, the chronograph function is not turned on, the watch will be 0.6 seconds slower every day, and it will be 1.6 seconds slower every day after the chronograph is turned on.

But in addition to this, the biggest impact after starting the chronograph function is the swing of the watch balance wheel, because the gears that are driven increase and the friction increases, so the swing will decrease. For example, the above Daytona has a 10° drop in the swing time. Under other conditions, the swing is low, which means that the watch is more susceptible to external shocks, resulting in precision errors.

It is worth mentioning that a lower swing does not mean that the watch is slower. In actual wear, the watch that reduces the swing may become slower or may become faster after being disturbed by the outside world. However, after the chronograph function is turned on, the watch is definitely more prone to precision errors than before.

POWER RESERVE

Most of the chronographs are two different gear trains, but the energy source is the same. After the chronograph function is activated, under the total amount of energy source not change, it is naturally consumed. To make a metaphor, just like a person eating alone in the family, now that the family’s total income has not increased, after adding one person, naturally, the monthly living expenses will be consumed a little faster. That is to say, after the time is turned on, the watch will stop running in advance without the energy being continuously replenished.

GEAR WEAR

Chronograph Watches with Horizontal Clutch

The timing transmission mode of the chronograph is mainly divided into two types, one is “horizontal clutch” and the other is “vertical clutch”, in which horizontal clutch is the most common. The principle of horizontal clutch is very simple, that is, the travel time wheel (red) and the drive wheel (green) are coupled. When the button is pressed to start the timing function, the drive wheel recouples the chronograph seconds wheel according to the direction of the yellow arrow (blue color). Once the coupling is successful, it means that the energy of the second wheel is passed to the chronograph second wheel, and the timing function is turned on.

Gear When Chronograph Function Is Switched

The biggest drawback of this horizontal clutch is that it suddenly couples a continuously operating gear to a stationary gear. It is good when the gear teeth are coupled successfully, but if the gear tips just hit together, it is easy to wear the gears. At the same time, at the moment of impact, the front of chronograph second hand will slightly tremble.

To this end, we deliberately took a small chronograph movement to start the gear coupling small video, you can clearly see the two gears of the wheel tip hit together, after a moment, the coupling is successful.

Broken Gears

When the chronograph function is frequently switched, in addition to normal wear and tear, it may even cause the teeth to bend and break.

STEEL FRACTURE

Chronograph Watches With Steel Fracture

As mentioned earlier, the use of a chronograph with a horizontal clutch causes the gear to wear and even the teeth to deform and break. There may be a friend who asks, is there a chronograph for the vertical clutch device that does not have this concern?

Yes, the chronograph using the vertical clutch does not have to worry about gear wear, but it still has the weakness that the steel used for switching will break after frequent use.

Because it involves a lot of boring mechanical knowledge, so let’s conclude. For the chronograph, if you don’t care about the accuracy and power reserve time, you can always turn on the chronograph function. However, do not start, pause, or return to zero frequently. If you play this for a long time, it will cause gear wear or steel fracture.

“You wind it, it will tell you the time.”

Many watch friends like to use the manual mechanical movement watch, which is exactly an opportunity to have a “communication” with the watch every day. As a living thing, when you give it energy, it will “feed back” to the wearer in the form of travel time. The “feedback” of the watch to the person, in addition to being obtained through the winding, but can also be sensed by operating the “timekeeping” or “minute-repeater” function. For example, pressing the chronograph button, the chronograph second hand starts to move immediately; when the lever is pulled up, the hammer hits the gong to make a sound.

The minute repeater is too far away from the general public, and the chronograph is naturally the most suitable option. Because of the complicated mechanical operation involved, many watch friends have some misunderstandings and puzzles about the use of chronograph watches. Today this article will talk about related stories, when the chronograph function is always on, does it hurt the watch?

Patek Philippe Chronograph Watch

Once, a watch friend asked me a strange problem with the watch he just bought. The second hand of the watch does not work, but the minute hand and the hour hand can display the normal time. After taking a small video to show me, I did not find any abnormalities, the second hand, minute hand, hour hand are clearly working. Then I learned that the “second hand” he refers to is actually the “chronograph second hand” in the center of the chronograph watch. He regards the chronograph watch as an ordinary three pin watch.

Chronograph Watches with Different Dial Layouts

Because chronographs are usually based on manual basic movements and superimposed mechanical parts, so our common chronograph dials are usually such a layout: the small dial at 9 o’clock is the travel time second hand, and the middle is the hour and minute hands. As an obsessive-compulsive disorder, this layout must not be accepted, so the travel time second hand moved from the 9 o’clock position to the 6 o’clock position. For example, the old model Daytona using the Valjoux 72 calibre and the Zenith movement’s make the second hand at 9 o’clock, and now Daytona uses the self-produced Cal.4130 is at 6 o’clock. Of course, there are also some watches that adopt with the superimposed timing module. Its travel time second hand will be at 12 o’clock or 3 o’clock, such as Audemars Piguet Offshore and TAG Heuer chronograph watches.

As the most important function of the chronograph watches, it will be naturally paid more attention. Firstly, in order to facilitate the reading time (the longer the hand is, the larger the dial is, the more convenient it is); secondly, the second hand is conveniently compared with the scale on the outer bezel and the dial to obtain the test result; finally, the second hand chronograph is used frequently. So almost all the chronographs are placed in the middle of the chronograph second hand. For the common three pin, this position is placed with the second hand. When the chronograph is not turned on or the time is paused, the central “chronograph second hand” is naturally at rest.

Many watch friends who have worn a three pin watch will feel very uncomfortable when they switch to the chronograph. When they look at the big second hand in the middle, they think their watch has stopped. Even if I later knew that the middle second hand was a chronograph second hand that was needed to use alone, their heart was still very uncomfortable. In this case, many watch friends will open the chronograph function and use the chronograph second hand as the travel time second hand. So, does this hurt the watch?